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I drove another mile to the restaurant; found that the pressure in one tire was ALL gone! I pumped up the tire, didn’t see or hear any obvious leak, so I drove home. The pressure has now held up for almost 24 hours, not sure what caused the leak. The warning light on the dash didn’t go away after the flat tire was reinflated. I read the manual and learned that it had to be re-initialized after each alert. I'll continue to monitor in the coming days, certainly won't take the car on a long trip.

Is there a difference between a Japan manufactured Camry versus the Us Camry's window switch assembly (driver side)? I have a friend that has a broken one and he claims that he cannot find one due to the fact his camry was made in Japan. I have located one at a local AP store for $65.00. He has been quoted $300.00 for one.

Drive the car. If possible, drive the car on highway. Listen the sounds ofwind and the engine. Listen if there is some uncommon sounds. Do you feel thecar very comfortable, smooth, stable? Make a sharp turn. Listen if there is someproblem with the C/V joint. Take your hands off the steering on a flat road. Isthe call pulling to one side? Push the brake to see if the car is pulling oneside when you push the brake.

This is also a good example why we should avoid driving on the run-flat tire with the warning light is on. In my case, there was no problem with the tire and it could be used after the rim problem was corrected. Had I not pumped up the tire before driving to the tire store, I might have caused some internal damage to the tire that would lead to premature failure later on. Any car with run-flats should really have a tire pump in the trunk at all times.  

Look at the first digits of the VIN.Camry's built in America will be marked with the numbers "1" or "4". Those built in Japan will start with a "J".There is no difference when replacing the drivers power window switch (master switch).I found one at Checker/O'Reilly for close to $200.

Check your tire pressure often. If it is too low or too high, it could pose a problem. Keep this level maintained so that your tires last as long as they should. You can easily check this with an inexpensive tire gauge.

For detail cleaning on the dashboard, the best thing to use is a soft paintbrush. It gets into all the grooves .

The o-ring looks to prevent oil from coming out of the distributor hole and leaking down the side of the engine. It doesn't look to be able to prevent oil from traveling along the distributor shaft, past the bearing, and into the dist body...I guess time will tell.

If it rains use carpet car mats. It's just not keep them stain free, but also saves the extra work.

Based on the information in these articles, it seems at least plausible that many RFT owners have unknowingly ran the tires under low pressure for an extended period. That would explain premature tire wear and failure for many, but not for all. Unlike conventional tires, RFT have stiff sidewalls that make a flat tire stay more round, hence harder to detect by eye. The low profile tires on BMW make it even harder to see bcs the space between the rim and the ground is small to begin with. Many of us are under the impression that TPMS is safeguard that replaces our eyeballs, but this is often not true.

Having read the manual of the '06 330xi, I see that it uses a so-called "indirect" TPMS which doesn't actually check the pressure, it just detects the difference in rotation among the tires. This system would pick up low pressure in a single tire, but not seasonal pressure changes (due to temperature drops in the fall and winter) that affect all 4 tires. This would explain why many owners had to replace the entire set of tires early.

Another subtle point is that the TPMS had to be "initialized" right after the tires are inflated to the correct pressures, because that's the reference point used by the computer to compare the tire rotation later. If the system is not initialized properly, e.g., not reset after tire rotation or a flat repair, that would also end up running the tires at the wrong pressure.

Supercharger kits are available for the Camry (Solara) V6 via Toyota's TRD division. If you can find a junked Solara from that year, you can do the engine/tranny/ECM swap then bolt on the blower. You even get a warranty on it. But granted, it puts out a tepid 4 psi boost. Any engine you want to withstand the boost you're looking for will need serious upgrading.

If the car is being bid on only by used car dealers, the chances are good that you will be able to snap up the vehicle at a price at (or very close to) the wholesale price. Car dealers of course want to be able to on sell there purchases at a fair price so they too will only bid up to what they consider a realistic price. The dealers are easy to spot because of the volume of cars they buy.  

Too many people who make the effort to go to an auction looking for a car make the mistake of choosing only one car, one particular vehicle, and that’s bad. This means they may get into a bidding war with someone else interested in the very same car and as a result will pay way too much for their used car and be disappointed, or get the car they wanted and pay too much.


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