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Based on the information in these articles, it seems at least plausible that many RFT owners have unknowingly ran the tires under low pressure for an extended period. That would explain premature tire wear and failure for many, but not for all. Unlike conventional tires, RFT have stiff sidewalls that make a flat tire stay more round, hence harder to detect by eye. The low profile tires on BMW make it even harder to see bcs the space between the rim and the ground is small to begin with. Many of us are under the impression that TPMS is safeguard that replaces our eyeballs, but this is often not true.

Having read the manual of the '06 330xi, I see that it uses a so-called "indirect" TPMS which doesn't actually check the pressure, it just detects the difference in rotation among the tires. This system would pick up low pressure in a single tire, but not seasonal pressure changes (due to temperature drops in the fall and winter) that affect all 4 tires. This would explain why many owners had to replace the entire set of tires early.

Another subtle point is that the TPMS had to be "initialized" right after the tires are inflated to the correct pressures, because that's the reference point used by the computer to compare the tire rotation later. If the system is not initialized properly, e.g., not reset after tire rotation or a flat repair, that would also end up running the tires at the wrong pressure.

Every rim has been damaged and I am trying to work a deal to have them take care of switching to a wheel and tire of my chasing along with a spare donught in the lazy susan well of the floor. I am not taking the odyssey off the lot until they have made it right by me. If they supply me with a 17" wheel and tire I have chosen I will let the matter drop. If they don't I will take photographs of the wheel damage done by them and retain an attorney. I am not going to put up with this insane monoply that Michelin and Honda have conspired in. This system is wrong and I will pursue it as far as humanly possible. The replacement wheel was priced to me at $400.00 each. If they don't take care of my request on Monday I will try to contact the media myself.

The o-ring looks to prevent oil from coming out of the distributor hole and leaking down the side of the engine. It doesn't look to be able to prevent oil from traveling along the distributor shaft, past the bearing, and into the dist body...I guess time will tell.

Waxing your car every few months is recommended for optimum paint protection. The wax creates a protective barrier from dirt and debris. Test various waxes until you find one that you like.

Rotate the tires as needed. The outer edge of the tire can become worn down over time so the tires need to be rotated. This puts the unworn edge on the outside so that you can get more use out of the tires. Rotating tires as needed can substantially increase how much you get out of them.

I spray WD-40 on my wheels before I go to the car wash,then when you get to the car wash, all you have to do is pressure wash the brake dust off...works great.

Just cleaned/regapped my spark plugs and cleaned up the cap & rotor contacts. Because of oil collecting on the inside bottom of the cap, I decided to go ahead and replace the o-ring oil seal as well. But last night when looking at the dist out of the engine, I'm wasn't sure that replacing that large o-ring will solve the problem. There looks to be a way for oil to get to the distributor shaft bearing (shoulda gotten pics) on purpose, but is there another smaller o-ring or seal that I've overlooked? The exploded diagrams I can find don't actually explode the distributor, so I can't see one and attempting to disassemble it was futile for the time I had.

Van owned for 13 months, 16,000 miles.  New tread depth on PAX is 10/32, mine were 3/32 front and 7/32 rear.  Michelin specs are minimum of 4/32 tread depth.  Called Michelin at 877-pax-tire (aw, how cute)  they now have 24/7 support BTW, that tells you something right there.  


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