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Based on the information in these articles, it seems at least plausible that many RFT owners have unknowingly ran the tires under low pressure for an extended period. That would explain premature tire wear and failure for many, but not for all. Unlike conventional tires, RFT have stiff sidewalls that make a flat tire stay more round, hence harder to detect by eye. The low profile tires on BMW make it even harder to see bcs the space between the rim and the ground is small to begin with. Many of us are under the impression that TPMS is safeguard that replaces our eyeballs, but this is often not true.

Having read the manual of the '06 330xi, I see that it uses a so-called "indirect" TPMS which doesn't actually check the pressure, it just detects the difference in rotation among the tires. This system would pick up low pressure in a single tire, but not seasonal pressure changes (due to temperature drops in the fall and winter) that affect all 4 tires. This would explain why many owners had to replace the entire set of tires early.

Another subtle point is that the TPMS had to be "initialized" right after the tires are inflated to the correct pressures, because that's the reference point used by the computer to compare the tire rotation later. If the system is not initialized properly, e.g., not reset after tire rotation or a flat repair, that would also end up running the tires at the wrong pressure.

Just cleaned/regapped my spark plugs and cleaned up the cap & rotor contacts. Because of oil collecting on the inside bottom of the cap, I decided to go ahead and replace the o-ring oil seal as well. But last night when looking at the dist out of the engine, I'm wasn't sure that replacing that large o-ring will solve the problem. There looks to be a way for oil to get to the distributor shaft bearing (shoulda gotten pics) on purpose, but is there another smaller o-ring or seal that I've overlooked? The exploded diagrams I can find don't actually explode the distributor, so I can't see one and attempting to disassemble it was futile for the time I had.

Before you go to an auction get a copy of the Nada blue book i don't suggest kbb or any consumer blue book, You should be able to borrow a copy from your bank they get them every month so they may loan you one, Try to get the wholesale book which is black this is what a lot of dealers use in dealer auctions. just remember right now is a buyers market take your time and be prepared to walk from the auction with nothing.

DETROIT — Chrysler rolled into the North American International Auto Show pretty much empty-handed, so Ferrari took pity on its corporate sibling and sent over a 599XX so there’d be something worth seeing on the Chrysler stand.

If it is a big leak such that the tire cannot hold pressure at all, I would still call a tow truck instead of driving on the flat. The truck always comes from a nearby service station that knows how to repair a tire. If they know you have not driven on the flat, they would be more willing to repair it. The expense of the tow is likely to be much less than a new RFT tire. If you’re member of an auto club such as AAA, the tow is free. A small tire pump should probably come as standard safety equipment on the car now that we don't even get a jack or an emergency spare anymore.

Carry a pressure guage and a small tire pump in the trunk at all times. In my '06 330xi, a small well under the trunk floor fits my tire pump perfectly. When the tire pressure warning comes on, don't keep driving on the flat if you can avoid it. Stop the car at a safe spot, pump up the flat, re-initialize the TPMS, and then drive to find a service station. If you get there before the warning comes on again, chances are that the tire has not been ruined and the tire can be repired. Most nail punctures are slow leaks. If you have not driven on the flat, no damage has been done and you shouldn’t have to replace it.

Continental seems to get less less complaints and they are less expensive than the OEM Bridgestone EL42-RFT. I asked the local Town Fair Tire store and they told me that they could get the Conti overnight and costs about $200. Tirerack.com carries it for about $150 + shipping/mounting/balance. Getting 20K miles out of the Bridgestone is not so bad as it has a relatively low rating on wear compared to others. There has been some talk about the Bridgestone having a new modified version, but it's unclear if that's actually true.