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Volvo truck spare part

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I have a 2006 Odyssey with PAX tires. In Sept last year, it took Honda dealer in NYC 5 days to replace a flat tire, And that was after I contacted Honda Customer service. Count me among those who won't drive the van more than 50 miles from home.

I drove another mile to the restaurant; found that the pressure in one tire was ALL gone! I pumped up the tire, didn’t see or hear any obvious leak, so I drove home. The pressure has now held up for almost 24 hours, not sure what caused the leak. The warning light on the dash didn’t go away after the flat tire was reinflated. I read the manual and learned that it had to be re-initialized after each alert. I'll continue to monitor in the coming days, certainly won't take the car on a long trip.

Keep a microfiber cloth dry in the car so that you can use them to clean the dashboard of a car in the long red lights or traffic jams.

Van owned for 13 months, 16,000 miles.  New tread depth on PAX is 10/32, mine were 3/32 front and 7/32 rear.  Michelin specs are minimum of 4/32 tread depth.  Called Michelin at 877-pax-tire (aw, how cute)  they now have 24/7 support BTW, that tells you something right there.  


That’s the Dodge Viper ACR, the 599’s second cousin by marriage, in the background. Let’s hope the children of the Fiat-Chrysler marriage turn out better than the Chrysler TC, that bastard child born of Lee Iacocca’s fling with Maserati.

The marketing pitch of these new technologies lead us to think that we would have less to worry: TPMS tells us when there is a problem, and we can keep driving 50 miles when the warning comes on. The truth is just the opposite: the new technology actually requires us to pay more careful attention to the tires than we're used to. A nail puncture in RFT can be repaired in principle, but apparently most service stations would not want to earn that $20 to risk being blamed for bigger problems later.

Just cleaned/regapped my spark plugs and cleaned up the cap & rotor contacts. Because of oil collecting on the inside bottom of the cap, I decided to go ahead and replace the o-ring oil seal as well. But last night when looking at the dist out of the engine, I'm wasn't sure that replacing that large o-ring will solve the problem. There looks to be a way for oil to get to the distributor shaft bearing (shoulda gotten pics) on purpose, but is there another smaller o-ring or seal that I've overlooked? The exploded diagrams I can find don't actually explode the distributor, so I can't see one and attempting to disassemble it was futile for the time I had.


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