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An inline-6 will be much longer (and I believe taller) than any engine installed by Toyota and will never fit in as a rear-wheel drive engine. In order to use this engine, you would have to extend the front clip at least a foot to provide clearance. There is no way it will fit as a transverse front-wheel drive engine. There were all-wheel drive Camrys available, but none with a inline 6.

If it is a big leak such that the tire cannot hold pressure at all, I would still call a tow truck instead of driving on the flat. The truck always comes from a nearby service station that knows how to repair a tire. If they know you have not driven on the flat, they would be more willing to repair it. The expense of the tow is likely to be much less than a new RFT tire. If you’re member of an auto club such as AAA, the tow is free. A small tire pump should probably come as standard safety equipment on the car now that we don't even get a jack or an emergency spare anymore.

Based on the information in these articles, it seems at least plausible that many RFT owners have unknowingly ran the tires under low pressure for an extended period. That would explain premature tire wear and failure for many, but not for all. Unlike conventional tires, RFT have stiff sidewalls that make a flat tire stay more round, hence harder to detect by eye. The low profile tires on BMW make it even harder to see bcs the space between the rim and the ground is small to begin with. Many of us are under the impression that TPMS is safeguard that replaces our eyeballs, but this is often not true.

Having read the manual of the '06 330xi, I see that it uses a so-called "indirect" TPMS which doesn't actually check the pressure, it just detects the difference in rotation among the tires. This system would pick up low pressure in a single tire, but not seasonal pressure changes (due to temperature drops in the fall and winter) that affect all 4 tires. This would explain why many owners had to replace the entire set of tires early.

Another subtle point is that the TPMS had to be "initialized" right after the tires are inflated to the correct pressures, because that's the reference point used by the computer to compare the tire rotation later. If the system is not initialized properly, e.g., not reset after tire rotation or a flat repair, that would also end up running the tires at the wrong pressure.

Look at inside. The most important thing is that the car is well maintainedand in a good condition. Some people don't treat their car good. A good carshould have a very clean inside. There is no holes in the seats. Check if allthe buttons works well.

This is also a good example why we should avoid driving on the run-flat tire with the warning light is on. In my case, there was no problem with the tire and it could be used after the rim problem was corrected. Had I not pumped up the tire before driving to the tire store, I might have caused some internal damage to the tire that would lead to premature failure later on. Any car with run-flats should really have a tire pump in the trunk at all times.  

If you have proof of reporting the noise before 10K miles, e.g, in one of the service orders, some dealers would honor that and replace all 4 tires even if your current mileage is over 10K. They may also contact BMW to get authorization. I think BMW is footing the bill, but different dealerships may handle these cases differently. Even if they would only do 2, it's better than none. Some dealers offered the other two tires at cost. If not, you can always go elsewhere to get the other 2 done at a more reasonable price.

Just cleaned/regapped my spark plugs and cleaned up the cap & rotor contacts. Because of oil collecting on the inside bottom of the cap, I decided to go ahead and replace the o-ring oil seal as well. But last night when looking at the dist out of the engine, I'm wasn't sure that replacing that large o-ring will solve the problem. There looks to be a way for oil to get to the distributor shaft bearing (shoulda gotten pics) on purpose, but is there another smaller o-ring or seal that I've overlooked? The exploded diagrams I can find don't actually explode the distributor, so I can't see one and attempting to disassemble it was futile for the time I had.