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This is a follow-up of my original post, where I had reported the tire going completely flat in a few hours and then held the pressure for more than a day later. I brought it to Town Fair Tire for an inspection. They took the tire off the wheel, smooth the rim and remounted it. I was told that there was a bit of corrosion and roughness on the rim. This makes sense to me as the leak may vary depending on whether the rough spot is close to the ground when the car is parked.

Many people are afraid to buy a used car at an auction. They are afraid of making a mistake and ending up with a "lemon". This fear is natural. It is also completely called for if you don’t know what you are doing. There are a few things you need to know before you even attempt to buy a car at a used car auction.

Based on the information in these articles, it seems at least plausible that many RFT owners have unknowingly ran the tires under low pressure for an extended period. That would explain premature tire wear and failure for many, but not for all. Unlike conventional tires, RFT have stiff sidewalls that make a flat tire stay more round, hence harder to detect by eye. The low profile tires on BMW make it even harder to see bcs the space between the rim and the ground is small to begin with. Many of us are under the impression that TPMS is safeguard that replaces our eyeballs, but this is often not true.

Having read the manual of the '06 330xi, I see that it uses a so-called "indirect" TPMS which doesn't actually check the pressure, it just detects the difference in rotation among the tires. This system would pick up low pressure in a single tire, but not seasonal pressure changes (due to temperature drops in the fall and winter) that affect all 4 tires. This would explain why many owners had to replace the entire set of tires early.

Another subtle point is that the TPMS had to be "initialized" right after the tires are inflated to the correct pressures, because that's the reference point used by the computer to compare the tire rotation later. If the system is not initialized properly, e.g., not reset after tire rotation or a flat repair, that would also end up running the tires at the wrong pressure.

Check your signal and brake lights. It does not take much for them to burn out and you could be driving around without knowing it.

If it rains use carpet car mats. It's just not keep them stain free, but also saves the extra work.

Check tire pressure on RFT more diligently than with non-RFT tires, bcs our eyes cannot detect low pressure well. Do not let the TPMS fool us into having a false sense of security and check the tires less frequently. This is probably an important factor behind a lot of unhappiness about RFT, Bridgestone or not. Ideally, car makers will want to switch to using "direct" TPMS in the future such that the pressure on all 4 tires are checked electronically and displayed on the dash board by pushing a button. Until then, this new technology really requires more careful attention from owners, not less.

I drove another mile to the restaurant; found that the pressure in one tire was ALL gone! I pumped up the tire, didn’t see or hear any obvious leak, so I drove home. The pressure has now held up for almost 24 hours, not sure what caused the leak. The warning light on the dash didn’t go away after the flat tire was reinflated. I read the manual and learned that it had to be re-initialized after each alert. I'll continue to monitor in the coming days, certainly won't take the car on a long trip.

Negative camber with to much toe out wears the inside edge of the tire. Get the car aligned. TPMS tells you when to pull over and fix your flat or run it flat and replace it. If you reset your TPMS it wont be active for a while as it relearns strategy in which time the tire pressure could be going down. Plugs allow you to patch a nail hole along side the road. Rotate your tires every other oil change and you wont have the shoulder wear on the front tires and the cupping on the rear tires.

I changed the o-ring on the distributor shaft. The dist cap gasket does need replacing, but not critical at this point...I want the oil to stop getting inside the distributor. There's a difference between an o-ring and a gasket.