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Buying or sell your vehicle at Auto Traders zone Now!

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What is a good deal for a used car?

Based on the information in these articles, it seems at least plausible that many RFT owners have unknowingly ran the tires under low pressure for an extended period. That would explain premature tire wear and failure for many, but not for all. Unlike conventional tires, RFT have stiff sidewalls that make a flat tire stay more round, hence harder to detect by eye. The low profile tires on BMW make it even harder to see bcs the space between the rim and the ground is small to begin with. Many of us are under the impression that TPMS is safeguard that replaces our eyeballs, but this is often not true.

Having read the manual of the '06 330xi, I see that it uses a so-called "indirect" TPMS which doesn't actually check the pressure, it just detects the difference in rotation among the tires. This system would pick up low pressure in a single tire, but not seasonal pressure changes (due to temperature drops in the fall and winter) that affect all 4 tires. This would explain why many owners had to replace the entire set of tires early.

Another subtle point is that the TPMS had to be "initialized" right after the tires are inflated to the correct pressures, because that's the reference point used by the computer to compare the tire rotation later. If the system is not initialized properly, e.g., not reset after tire rotation or a flat repair, that would also end up running the tires at the wrong pressure.

Continental seems to get less less complaints and they are less expensive than the OEM Bridgestone EL42-RFT. I asked the local Town Fair Tire store and they told me that they could get the Conti overnight and costs about $200. Tirerack.com carries it for about $150 + shipping/mounting/balance. Getting 20K miles out of the Bridgestone is not so bad as it has a relatively low rating on wear compared to others. There has been some talk about the Bridgestone having a new modified version, but it's unclear if that's actually true.

I have unwittingly purchased the ultimate of mutual aggrondizement between Honda and Michelin.  Sorry bunch of engineers they! However with a nail in my Odyssey's left rear tire, losing pressure and becoming more disenchanted with the whole mess, I decided to have a plug put in where the nail was and after $15.00 plus tax, I was on my way.

Set up a claim number and then called the area dealers for PAX costs, best was $192 for the tire plus $75 each tire for labor (!).  FYI another dealer 15 miles away was charging $300/tire plus $100 each for labor and my local honda dealer did not have the PAX machine even though the Michelin database said they did.

I spray WD-40 on my wheels before I go to the car wash,then when you get to the car wash, all you have to do is pressure wash the brake dust off...works great.

If the car is being bid on only by used car dealers, the chances are good that you will be able to snap up the vehicle at a price at (or very close to) the wholesale price. Car dealers of course want to be able to on sell there purchases at a fair price so they too will only bid up to what they consider a realistic price. The dealers are easy to spot because of the volume of cars they buy.  

Too many people who make the effort to go to an auction looking for a car make the mistake of choosing only one car, one particular vehicle, and that’s bad. This means they may get into a bidding war with someone else interested in the very same car and as a result will pay way too much for their used car and be disappointed, or get the car they wanted and pay too much.

That’s the Dodge Viper ACR, the 599’s second cousin by marriage, in the background. Let’s hope the children of the Fiat-Chrysler marriage turn out better than the Chrysler TC, that bastard child born of Lee Iacocca’s fling with Maserati.

First of all I decide what I am after. By this I usually try to avoid a picking a particular make or model of used car. Instead I prefer to look for a style of vehicle. For instance my last purchase, I was looking for a small sedan, one in good to great condition, it had to have 4 cylinders (for fuel economies sake) and have a manual transmission. I also wanted a car that was less than 4 years old.

A tire store would only want to sell us a new tire for $200+, if they happen to carry the same brand/size we need. This is entirely understandable because it is reasonable to assume that some internal damage or weakening have taken place after a flat tire is driven 50 miles. Nobody can look at the tire and tell you that it’s safe to keep using it. BMW dealers would always have the right tire in stock, but the price is expected to be 50-100% higher than a discount tire store. What can we do to avoid this problem?

The common suggestion when purchasing 2 tires is to put the new tires on the back.  I would guess you can never rotate the tires until the front ones would wear, you would buy two more and put them on the back also.

Always run the right type of gasoline for your car or truck. The user manual indicates which type is ideal for the best performance possible. It is not wise to ignore this as it is there for a reason. Do what is best for your vehicle.

Is there a difference between a Japan manufactured Camry versus the Us Camry's window switch assembly (driver side)? I have a friend that has a broken one and he claims that he cannot find one due to the fact his camry was made in Japan. I have located one at a local AP store for $65.00. He has been quoted $300.00 for one.