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Continental seems to get less less complaints and they are less expensive than the OEM Bridgestone EL42-RFT. I asked the local Town Fair Tire store and they told me that they could get the Conti overnight and costs about $200. Tirerack.com carries it for about $150 + shipping/mounting/balance. Getting 20K miles out of the Bridgestone is not so bad as it has a relatively low rating on wear compared to others. There has been some talk about the Bridgestone having a new modified version, but it's unclear if that's actually true.

Just cleaned/regapped my spark plugs and cleaned up the cap & rotor contacts. Because of oil collecting on the inside bottom of the cap, I decided to go ahead and replace the o-ring oil seal as well. But last night when looking at the dist out of the engine, I'm wasn't sure that replacing that large o-ring will solve the problem. There looks to be a way for oil to get to the distributor shaft bearing (shoulda gotten pics) on purpose, but is there another smaller o-ring or seal that I've overlooked? The exploded diagrams I can find don't actually explode the distributor, so I can't see one and attempting to disassemble it was futile for the time I had.

Every rim has been damaged and I am trying to work a deal to have them take care of switching to a wheel and tire of my chasing along with a spare donught in the lazy susan well of the floor. I am not taking the odyssey off the lot until they have made it right by me. If they supply me with a 17" wheel and tire I have chosen I will let the matter drop. If they don't I will take photographs of the wheel damage done by them and retain an attorney. I am not going to put up with this insane monoply that Michelin and Honda have conspired in. This system is wrong and I will pursue it as far as humanly possible. The replacement wheel was priced to me at $400.00 each. If they don't take care of my request on Monday I will try to contact the media myself.

I drove another mile to the restaurant; found that the pressure in one tire was ALL gone! I pumped up the tire, didn’t see or hear any obvious leak, so I drove home. The pressure has now held up for almost 24 hours, not sure what caused the leak. The warning light on the dash didn’t go away after the flat tire was reinflated. I read the manual and learned that it had to be re-initialized after each alert. I'll continue to monitor in the coming days, certainly won't take the car on a long trip.

For detail cleaning on the dashboard, the best thing to use is a soft paintbrush. It gets into all the grooves .

Note that I specifically asked about the tire life when I bought the van and the dealer stated it was 35K miles.  So today I had the dealer I went to contact the Michelin rep to start the claim, they agreed to pay 70% of the tire cost for the two tires that were out of spec, so it cost me $170+/- to get the two tires replaced after one year, and it looks like I will be doing two more at full price in 6 months unless Michelin comes to their senses.  My local tire dealer (non-PAX) said he would put together a tire/rim package for the local Touring owners as he has started seeing quite a few people come in with less than 20k miles and shot tires.  He said it reminded him of the Ford Explorer tire fiasco a few years ago.

The o-ring looks to prevent oil from coming out of the distributor hole and leaking down the side of the engine. It doesn't look to be able to prevent oil from traveling along the distributor shaft, past the bearing, and into the dist body...I guess time will tell.

An inline-6 will be much longer (and I believe taller) than any engine installed by Toyota and will never fit in as a rear-wheel drive engine. In order to use this engine, you would have to extend the front clip at least a foot to provide clearance. There is no way it will fit as a transverse front-wheel drive engine. There were all-wheel drive Camrys available, but none with a inline 6.


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