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Continental seems to get less less complaints and they are less expensive than the OEM Bridgestone EL42-RFT. I asked the local Town Fair Tire store and they told me that they could get the Conti overnight and costs about $200. Tirerack.com carries it for about $150 + shipping/mounting/balance. Getting 20K miles out of the Bridgestone is not so bad as it has a relatively low rating on wear compared to others. There has been some talk about the Bridgestone having a new modified version, but it's unclear if that's actually true.

Every rim has been damaged and I am trying to work a deal to have them take care of switching to a wheel and tire of my chasing along with a spare donught in the lazy susan well of the floor. I am not taking the odyssey off the lot until they have made it right by me. If they supply me with a 17" wheel and tire I have chosen I will let the matter drop. If they don't I will take photographs of the wheel damage done by them and retain an attorney. I am not going to put up with this insane monoply that Michelin and Honda have conspired in. This system is wrong and I will pursue it as far as humanly possible. The replacement wheel was priced to me at $400.00 each. If they don't take care of my request on Monday I will try to contact the media myself.

Note that I specifically asked about the tire life when I bought the van and the dealer stated it was 35K miles.  So today I had the dealer I went to contact the Michelin rep to start the claim, they agreed to pay 70% of the tire cost for the two tires that were out of spec, so it cost me $170+/- to get the two tires replaced after one year, and it looks like I will be doing two more at full price in 6 months unless Michelin comes to their senses.  My local tire dealer (non-PAX) said he would put together a tire/rim package for the local Touring owners as he has started seeing quite a few people come in with less than 20k miles and shot tires.  He said it reminded him of the Ford Explorer tire fiasco a few years ago.

Just cleaned/regapped my spark plugs and cleaned up the cap & rotor contacts. Because of oil collecting on the inside bottom of the cap, I decided to go ahead and replace the o-ring oil seal as well. But last night when looking at the dist out of the engine, I'm wasn't sure that replacing that large o-ring will solve the problem. There looks to be a way for oil to get to the distributor shaft bearing (shoulda gotten pics) on purpose, but is there another smaller o-ring or seal that I've overlooked? The exploded diagrams I can find don't actually explode the distributor, so I can't see one and attempting to disassemble it was futile for the time I had.

What I do when I have a question like this is go to one of the online Toyota dealer's parts sites or call or go to your local Toyota dealer. Tell them the year and model of the car and the part you are looking for. If they ask for a vin number or ask whether the car is made in the US or Japan, then you know they are different. If they don't ask, then it shouldn't matter.

Then if you can not get it, you can leave. If you can not get the car bytwice, then go the third dealer. Then go up until the price your friends paid.You will get the car. Now that your friends can get it by the price, why can'tyou?

Try to contact the us marshals office to find which auction they send the drug cars to, or contact your local banks and credit unions to see if they have repossessions up for bids, if they do don't be afraid of insulting anyone by low biding even if they have a start price. if you can prepare for purchasing a car a few months before you need to buy that's the best way to get your best deal.



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