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Start the engine. Pay attention to the sound when the car start. Good enginesounds not heavy. Push the gas, listen the sounds. Good engine should be verysmooth and stable. Watch if the muffler smoking. Close all trunks. Get in thecar. Check if the A/C is cold. Is there some special noise when you turn on theA/C? If something is power, check all of them. Don't forget the radio.

Note that I specifically asked about the tire life when I bought the van and the dealer stated it was 35K miles.  So today I had the dealer I went to contact the Michelin rep to start the claim, they agreed to pay 70% of the tire cost for the two tires that were out of spec, so it cost me $170+/- to get the two tires replaced after one year, and it looks like I will be doing two more at full price in 6 months unless Michelin comes to their senses.  My local tire dealer (non-PAX) said he would put together a tire/rim package for the local Touring owners as he has started seeing quite a few people come in with less than 20k miles and shot tires.  He said it reminded him of the Ford Explorer tire fiasco a few years ago.

Look at the first digits of the VIN.Camry's built in America will be marked with the numbers "1" or "4". Those built in Japan will start with a "J".There is no difference when replacing the drivers power window switch (master switch).I found one at Checker/O'Reilly for close to $200.

If you have proof of reporting the noise before 10K miles, e.g, in one of the service orders, some dealers would honor that and replace all 4 tires even if your current mileage is over 10K. They may also contact BMW to get authorization. I think BMW is footing the bill, but different dealerships may handle these cases differently. Even if they would only do 2, it's better than none. Some dealers offered the other two tires at cost. If not, you can always go elsewhere to get the other 2 done at a more reasonable price.

For detail cleaning on the dashboard, the best thing to use is a soft paintbrush. It gets into all the grooves .

Just cleaned/regapped my spark plugs and cleaned up the cap & rotor contacts. Because of oil collecting on the inside bottom of the cap, I decided to go ahead and replace the o-ring oil seal as well. But last night when looking at the dist out of the engine, I'm wasn't sure that replacing that large o-ring will solve the problem. There looks to be a way for oil to get to the distributor shaft bearing (shoulda gotten pics) on purpose, but is there another smaller o-ring or seal that I've overlooked? The exploded diagrams I can find don't actually explode the distributor, so I can't see one and attempting to disassemble it was futile for the time I had.


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