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Keep your battery clean and check it regularly to ensure that it is maintaining a proper charge. Allowing the battery to get filthy can be problematic.

Vacuum in hard to reach places if you get yourself a length of hose pipe. Your hose pipe is probably long enough that you can spare 20", all you need to do is place one end of the hose between thumb and fore-finger and cup your hand over the nozzle of the vacuum cleaner. This narrow extension not only enables you to get into those hard to reach areas down the side of the centre console, but it actually has more suck.

Use baby wipes on car dashboards, they clean like new and leave an anti-static layer.

If you buy the car by financing. Always pay attention to the APR. DifferentAPR means different price.

Based on the information in these articles, it seems at least plausible that many RFT owners have unknowingly ran the tires under low pressure for an extended period. That would explain premature tire wear and failure for many, but not for all. Unlike conventional tires, RFT have stiff sidewalls that make a flat tire stay more round, hence harder to detect by eye. The low profile tires on BMW make it even harder to see bcs the space between the rim and the ground is small to begin with. Many of us are under the impression that TPMS is safeguard that replaces our eyeballs, but this is often not true.

Having read the manual of the '06 330xi, I see that it uses a so-called "indirect" TPMS which doesn't actually check the pressure, it just detects the difference in rotation among the tires. This system would pick up low pressure in a single tire, but not seasonal pressure changes (due to temperature drops in the fall and winter) that affect all 4 tires. This would explain why many owners had to replace the entire set of tires early.

Another subtle point is that the TPMS had to be "initialized" right after the tires are inflated to the correct pressures, because that's the reference point used by the computer to compare the tire rotation later. If the system is not initialized properly, e.g., not reset after tire rotation or a flat repair, that would also end up running the tires at the wrong pressure.

Just cleaned/regapped my spark plugs and cleaned up the cap & rotor contacts. Because of oil collecting on the inside bottom of the cap, I decided to go ahead and replace the o-ring oil seal as well. But last night when looking at the dist out of the engine, I'm wasn't sure that replacing that large o-ring will solve the problem. There looks to be a way for oil to get to the distributor shaft bearing (shoulda gotten pics) on purpose, but is there another smaller o-ring or seal that I've overlooked? The exploded diagrams I can find don't actually explode the distributor, so I can't see one and attempting to disassemble it was futile for the time I had.

This is also a good example why we should avoid driving on the run-flat tire with the warning light is on. In my case, there was no problem with the tire and it could be used after the rim problem was corrected. Had I not pumped up the tire before driving to the tire store, I might have caused some internal damage to the tire that would lead to premature failure later on. Any car with run-flats should really have a tire pump in the trunk at all times.