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Try used fabric softer dryer sheets to remove love bugs from front of car,just wet them and rub away the bugs.

The marketing pitch of these new technologies lead us to think that we would have less to worry: TPMS tells us when there is a problem, and we can keep driving 50 miles when the warning comes on. The truth is just the opposite: the new technology actually requires us to pay more careful attention to the tires than we're used to. A nail puncture in RFT can be repaired in principle, but apparently most service stations would not want to earn that $20 to risk being blamed for bigger problems later.

Start the engine. Pay attention to the sound when the car start. Good enginesounds not heavy. Push the gas, listen the sounds. Good engine should be verysmooth and stable. Watch if the muffler smoking. Close all trunks. Get in thecar. Check if the A/C is cold. Is there some special noise when you turn on theA/C? If something is power, check all of them. Don't forget the radio.

This is a follow-up of my original post, where I had reported the tire going completely flat in a few hours and then held the pressure for more than a day later. I brought it to Town Fair Tire for an inspection. They took the tire off the wheel, smooth the rim and remounted it. I was told that there was a bit of corrosion and roughness on the rim. This makes sense to me as the leak may vary depending on whether the rough spot is close to the ground when the car is parked.

Carry a pressure guage and a small tire pump in the trunk at all times. In my '06 330xi, a small well under the trunk floor fits my tire pump perfectly. When the tire pressure warning comes on, don't keep driving on the flat if you can avoid it. Stop the car at a safe spot, pump up the flat, re-initialize the TPMS, and then drive to find a service station. If you get there before the warning comes on again, chances are that the tire has not been ruined and the tire can be repired. Most nail punctures are slow leaks. If you have not driven on the flat, no damage has been done and you shouldn’t have to replace it.

For those whose blood doesn't run rosso corsa, the 599XX is the sharpest track weapon the Scuderia builds short of its F1 cars. We first saw it almost a year ago at the Geneva auto show, but since Ferrari skipped Detroit this year it’s the only thing here wearing the cavallino rampante. It’s based on the magnificent 599 GTB Fiorano but is a different beast altogether. Maranello slathered this 700-horsepower rocket with all the latest high-tech hardware its racing department could muster.

Based on the information in these articles, it seems at least plausible that many RFT owners have unknowingly ran the tires under low pressure for an extended period. That would explain premature tire wear and failure for many, but not for all. Unlike conventional tires, RFT have stiff sidewalls that make a flat tire stay more round, hence harder to detect by eye. The low profile tires on BMW make it even harder to see bcs the space between the rim and the ground is small to begin with. Many of us are under the impression that TPMS is safeguard that replaces our eyeballs, but this is often not true.

Having read the manual of the '06 330xi, I see that it uses a so-called "indirect" TPMS which doesn't actually check the pressure, it just detects the difference in rotation among the tires. This system would pick up low pressure in a single tire, but not seasonal pressure changes (due to temperature drops in the fall and winter) that affect all 4 tires. This would explain why many owners had to replace the entire set of tires early.

Another subtle point is that the TPMS had to be "initialized" right after the tires are inflated to the correct pressures, because that's the reference point used by the computer to compare the tire rotation later. If the system is not initialized properly, e.g., not reset after tire rotation or a flat repair, that would also end up running the tires at the wrong pressure.

I changed the o-ring on the distributor shaft. The dist cap gasket does need replacing, but not critical at this point...I want the oil to stop getting inside the distributor. There's a difference between an o-ring and a gasket.

Just cleaned/regapped my spark plugs and cleaned up the cap & rotor contacts. Because of oil collecting on the inside bottom of the cap, I decided to go ahead and replace the o-ring oil seal as well. But last night when looking at the dist out of the engine, I'm wasn't sure that replacing that large o-ring will solve the problem. There looks to be a way for oil to get to the distributor shaft bearing (shoulda gotten pics) on purpose, but is there another smaller o-ring or seal that I've overlooked? The exploded diagrams I can find don't actually explode the distributor, so I can't see one and attempting to disassemble it was futile for the time I had.

That’s the Dodge Viper ACR, the 599’s second cousin by marriage, in the background. Let’s hope the children of the Fiat-Chrysler marriage turn out better than the Chrysler TC, that bastard child born of Lee Iacocca’s fling with Maserati.