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This is a follow-up of my original post, where I had reported the tire going completely flat in a few hours and then held the pressure for more than a day later. I brought it to Town Fair Tire for an inspection. They took the tire off the wheel, smooth the rim and remounted it. I was told that there was a bit of corrosion and roughness on the rim. This makes sense to me as the leak may vary depending on whether the rough spot is close to the ground when the car is parked.

Vacuum in hard to reach places if you get yourself a length of hose pipe. Your hose pipe is probably long enough that you can spare 20", all you need to do is place one end of the hose between thumb and fore-finger and cup your hand over the nozzle of the vacuum cleaner. This narrow extension not only enables you to get into those hard to reach areas down the side of the centre console, but it actually has more suck.

Use baby wipes on car dashboards, they clean like new and leave an anti-static layer.

Negative camber with to much toe out wears the inside edge of the tire. Get the car aligned. TPMS tells you when to pull over and fix your flat or run it flat and replace it. If you reset your TPMS it wont be active for a while as it relearns strategy in which time the tire pressure could be going down. Plugs allow you to patch a nail hole along side the road. Rotate your tires every other oil change and you wont have the shoulder wear on the front tires and the cupping on the rear tires.

Battery Cleaner(Removes built-up acid)Baking soda and Water Sprinkle baking soda onto battery terminals. Spritz with water to dampen. Let set for about one hour. Sponge off with water. Air dry.

A tire store would only want to sell us a new tire for $200+, if they happen to carry the same brand/size we need. This is entirely understandable because it is reasonable to assume that some internal damage or weakening have taken place after a flat tire is driven 50 miles. Nobody can look at the tire and tell you that it’s safe to keep using it. BMW dealers would always have the right tire in stock, but the price is expected to be 50-100% higher than a discount tire store. What can we do to avoid this problem?

I have unwittingly purchased the ultimate of mutual aggrondizement between Honda and Michelin. Sorry bunch of engineers they! However with a nail in my Odyssey's left rear tire, losing pressure and becoming more disenchanted with the whole mess, I decided to have a plug put in where the nail was and after $15.00 plus tax, I was on my way.

Continental seems to get less less complaints and they are less expensive than the OEM Bridgestone EL42-RFT. I asked the local Town Fair Tire store and they told me that they could get the Conti overnight and costs about $200. Tirerack.com carries it for about $150 + shipping/mounting/balance. Getting 20K miles out of the Bridgestone is not so bad as it has a relatively low rating on wear compared to others. There has been some talk about the Bridgestone having a new modified version, but it's unclear if that's actually true.

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