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Continental seems to get less less complaints and they are less expensive than the OEM Bridgestone EL42-RFT. I asked the local Town Fair Tire store and they told me that they could get the Conti overnight and costs about $200. Tirerack.com carries it for about $150 + shipping/mounting/balance. Getting 20K miles out of the Bridgestone is not so bad as it has a relatively low rating on wear compared to others. There has been some talk about the Bridgestone having a new modified version, but it's unclear if that's actually true.

Note that I specifically asked about the tire life when I bought the van and the dealer stated it was 35K miles.  So today I had the dealer I went to contact the Michelin rep to start the claim, they agreed to pay 70% of the tire cost for the two tires that were out of spec, so it cost me $170+/- to get the two tires replaced after one year, and it looks like I will be doing two more at full price in 6 months unless Michelin comes to their senses.  My local tire dealer (non-PAX) said he would put together a tire/rim package for the local Touring owners as he has started seeing quite a few people come in with less than 20k miles and shot tires.  He said it reminded him of the Ford Explorer tire fiasco a few years ago.

Just cleaned/regapped my spark plugs and cleaned up the cap & rotor contacts. Because of oil collecting on the inside bottom of the cap, I decided to go ahead and replace the o-ring oil seal as well. But last night when looking at the dist out of the engine, I'm wasn't sure that replacing that large o-ring will solve the problem. There looks to be a way for oil to get to the distributor shaft bearing (shoulda gotten pics) on purpose, but is there another smaller o-ring or seal that I've overlooked? The exploded diagrams I can find don't actually explode the distributor, so I can't see one and attempting to disassemble it was futile for the time I had.

Does the title have a clean history? Some title is rebuilt. This means thecar had been damaged before. And something of the car is rebuilt. If you buy acar from the owner, ask him how long he/she drove the car and why he/she want tosell it. If you buy from dealer, ask if there will be some charges such asdealership. They will charge you additional money.

DETROIT — Chrysler rolled into the North American International Auto Show pretty much empty-handed, so Ferrari took pity on its corporate sibling and sent over a 599XX so there’d be something worth seeing on the Chrysler stand.

I drove another mile to the restaurant; found that the pressure in one tire was ALL gone! I pumped up the tire, didn’t see or hear any obvious leak, so I drove home. The pressure has now held up for almost 24 hours, not sure what caused the leak. The warning light on the dash didn’t go away after the flat tire was reinflated. I read the manual and learned that it had to be re-initialized after each alert. I'll continue to monitor in the coming days, certainly won't take the car on a long trip.

If it is a big leak such that the tire cannot hold pressure at all, I would still call a tow truck instead of driving on the flat. The truck always comes from a nearby service station that knows how to repair a tire. If they know you have not driven on the flat, they would be more willing to repair it. The expense of the tow is likely to be much less than a new RFT tire. If you’re member of an auto club such as AAA, the tow is free. A small tire pump should probably come as standard safety equipment on the car now that we don't even get a jack or an emergency spare anymore.


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