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The o-ring looks to prevent oil from coming out of the distributor hole and leaking down the side of the engine. It doesn't look to be able to prevent oil from traveling along the distributor shaft, past the bearing, and into the dist body...I guess time will tell.

Start to look for the car two month before you really need the car. The mostimportant thing to buy a used car is to buy a car in good condition. The secondimportant thing is to save money. If you want to buy a car in one week, youhighly risk your money. I can buy a car in 2 minutes but I don't think you cando like that. You will get reward by your patient.

Battery Cleaner(Removes built-up acid)Baking soda and Water Sprinkle baking soda onto battery terminals. Spritz with water to dampen. Let set for about one hour. Sponge off with water. Air dry.

Keep a microfiber cloth dry in the car so that you can use them to clean the dashboard of a car in the long red lights or traffic jams.

Start the engine. Pay attention to the sound when the car start. Good enginesounds not heavy. Push the gas, listen the sounds. Good engine should be verysmooth and stable. Watch if the muffler smoking. Close all trunks. Get in thecar. Check if the A/C is cold. Is there some special noise when you turn on theA/C? If something is power, check all of them. Don't forget the radio.

If it rains use carpet car mats. It's just not keep them stain free, but also saves the extra work.

Look at inside. The most important thing is that the car is well maintainedand in a good condition. Some people don't treat their car good. A good carshould have a very clean inside. There is no holes in the seats. Check if allthe buttons works well.

Just cleaned/regapped my spark plugs and cleaned up the cap & rotor contacts. Because of oil collecting on the inside bottom of the cap, I decided to go ahead and replace the o-ring oil seal as well. But last night when looking at the dist out of the engine, I'm wasn't sure that replacing that large o-ring will solve the problem. There looks to be a way for oil to get to the distributor shaft bearing (shoulda gotten pics) on purpose, but is there another smaller o-ring or seal that I've overlooked? The exploded diagrams I can find don't actually explode the distributor, so I can't see one and attempting to disassemble it was futile for the time I had.

I spray WD-40 on my wheels before I go to the car wash,then when you get to the car wash, all you have to do is pressure wash the brake dust off...works great.

Based on the information in these articles, it seems at least plausible that many RFT owners have unknowingly ran the tires under low pressure for an extended period. That would explain premature tire wear and failure for many, but not for all. Unlike conventional tires, RFT have stiff sidewalls that make a flat tire stay more round, hence harder to detect by eye. The low profile tires on BMW make it even harder to see bcs the space between the rim and the ground is small to begin with. Many of us are under the impression that TPMS is safeguard that replaces our eyeballs, but this is often not true.

Having read the manual of the '06 330xi, I see that it uses a so-called "indirect" TPMS which doesn't actually check the pressure, it just detects the difference in rotation among the tires. This system would pick up low pressure in a single tire, but not seasonal pressure changes (due to temperature drops in the fall and winter) that affect all 4 tires. This would explain why many owners had to replace the entire set of tires early.

Another subtle point is that the TPMS had to be "initialized" right after the tires are inflated to the correct pressures, because that's the reference point used by the computer to compare the tire rotation later. If the system is not initialized properly, e.g., not reset after tire rotation or a flat repair, that would also end up running the tires at the wrong pressure.


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