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Based on the information in these articles, it seems at least plausible that many RFT owners have unknowingly ran the tires under low pressure for an extended period. That would explain premature tire wear and failure for many, but not for all. Unlike conventional tires, RFT have stiff sidewalls that make a flat tire stay more round, hence harder to detect by eye. The low profile tires on BMW make it even harder to see bcs the space between the rim and the ground is small to begin with. Many of us are under the impression that TPMS is safeguard that replaces our eyeballs, but this is often not true.

Having read the manual of the '06 330xi, I see that it uses a so-called "indirect" TPMS which doesn't actually check the pressure, it just detects the difference in rotation among the tires. This system would pick up low pressure in a single tire, but not seasonal pressure changes (due to temperature drops in the fall and winter) that affect all 4 tires. This would explain why many owners had to replace the entire set of tires early.

Another subtle point is that the TPMS had to be "initialized" right after the tires are inflated to the correct pressures, because that's the reference point used by the computer to compare the tire rotation later. If the system is not initialized properly, e.g., not reset after tire rotation or a flat repair, that would also end up running the tires at the wrong pressure.

Vacuum in hard to reach places if you get yourself a length of hose pipe. Your hose pipe is probably long enough that you can spare 20", all you need to do is place one end of the hose between thumb and fore-finger and cup your hand over the nozzle of the vacuum cleaner. This narrow extension not only enables you to get into those hard to reach areas down the side of the centre console, but it actually has more suck.

Use baby wipes on car dashboards, they clean like new and leave an anti-static layer.

A tire store would only want to sell us a new tire for $200+, if they happen to carry the same brand/size we need. This is entirely understandable because it is reasonable to assume that some internal damage or weakening have taken place after a flat tire is driven 50 miles. Nobody can look at the tire and tell you that it’s safe to keep using it. BMW dealers would always have the right tire in stock, but the price is expected to be 50-100% higher than a discount tire store. What can we do to avoid this problem?

Van owned for 13 months, 16,000 miles.  New tread depth on PAX is 10/32, mine were 3/32 front and 7/32 rear.  Michelin specs are minimum of 4/32 tread depth.  Called Michelin at 877-pax-tire (aw, how cute)  they now have 24/7 support BTW, that tells you something right there.  

Look at the first digits of the VIN.Camry's built in America will be marked with the numbers "1" or "4". Those built in Japan will start with a "J".There is no difference when replacing the drivers power window switch (master switch).I found one at Checker/O'Reilly for close to $200.

Every rim has been damaged and I am trying to work a deal to have them take care of switching to a wheel and tire of my chasing along with a spare donught in the lazy susan well of the floor. I am not taking the odyssey off the lot until they have made it right by me. If they supply me with a 17" wheel and tire I have chosen I will let the matter drop. If they don't I will take photographs of the wheel damage done by them and retain an attorney. I am not going to put up with this insane monoply that Michelin and Honda have conspired in. This system is wrong and I will pursue it as far as humanly possible. The replacement wheel was priced to me at $400.00 each. If they don't take care of my request on Monday I will try to contact the media myself.

Try used fabric softer dryer sheets to remove love bugs from front of car,just wet them and rub away the bugs.

Have you ever dreamed of owning your own car? Imagine driving down a tree-lined street with the windows down on a sunny day, a warm rush of air streaming through your hair... OK, snap out of your reverie. Before you start mapping out the route to the nearest beach, you just might want to learn some valuable car-buying tips.

Freshen up - To rid of stale odors from the ventilation ducts, try spraying odor eliminator into the system's air intake, which is usually located at the base of the windshield. Then run the air conditioner full blast for at least 10 minutes.

What I do when I have a question like this is go to one of the online Toyota dealer's parts sites or call or go to your local Toyota dealer. Tell them the year and model of the car and the part you are looking for. If they ask for a vin number or ask whether the car is made in the US or Japan, then you know they are different. If they don't ask, then it shouldn't matter.

Just cleaned/regapped my spark plugs and cleaned up the cap & rotor contacts. Because of oil collecting on the inside bottom of the cap, I decided to go ahead and replace the o-ring oil seal as well. But last night when looking at the dist out of the engine, I'm wasn't sure that replacing that large o-ring will solve the problem. There looks to be a way for oil to get to the distributor shaft bearing (shoulda gotten pics) on purpose, but is there another smaller o-ring or seal that I've overlooked? The exploded diagrams I can find don't actually explode the distributor, so I can't see one and attempting to disassemble it was futile for the time I had.

When your windshield starts blurring when you turn the wipers on, dampen a cloth or rag with some full-strength white vinegar and run it down the full length of each blade once or twice.


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